Harcourt Valley - Garden Boulders

The Garden Boulders exist on the lefthand side of the valley (when approaching from the west), of which Scorpian Rocks lies at the head. It is a small area to the left of the main path. If you head to the right up the hillside you get to the Lord Area and eventually Dog Rocks.

First ascents by a cast of thousands (possibly) including: Pete Reynolds, Simon Weill, Ash Sankey, Charlie Crease, Martin Lama, Kent Patterson and Neil Montieth. Specified where clear.



Some problems:

The Groove V3 - ascend the groove exiting left from a stand-start.

The Other Groove V5 - from a stand-start ascend the groove exiting to the right by gaining the crucial crimp with the left hand.

The Garden V8 - from a sit-start climb the blunt arete left of The Groove by way of a big move with the left hand to the scoop. A stand-start is possible but considerably easier. FA: Pete Reynolds.

The arete to the right of The Groove is a good warm-up.

A V4 problem (Threading the Needle) weaves between The Garden and The Groove. FA: Pete Reynolds.




Shots V3 - stand-start about 2m left of The Garden and climb the "shot-marks" to the right-trending flake line. Eases at the top.




Uphill from the The Groove Boulder is a beautiful arete with a long slab adjoining it.

Arnold Sane V5 - climb the arete from a stand-start moving rightwards to finish. FA: Simon Weill.

Rippled Slab 1 V1 - direct up the slab about 2m right of Arbold Sane - through a tiny overlap.

Rippled Slab 2 V1 - at the far right of the slab take a direct line but move leftwards to finish below the high-point of the wall.

Rippled Slab 3 V2 - takes the far right line proper - finishing at the high point of the wall.




Step Left and Step Right are easier problems on the opposite side of the rippled slab. They can be made harder with a sit-start.





First Visit V4 - this tackles the arete to an easing finish. FA: Martin Lama.

The arete right of First Visit was also climbed by Martin Lama. High but not that tricky.



Beetle and Beetle Crack are tricky lines that need blinkers to stop them blending into one. Both are around V4. FA for both: Pete Reynolds.


The classic Jam Crack is either brutal or easy - it depends on your skill and resistance to pain. A good line.

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