The Artful Dodger is the beautiful arete clearly visible from the road just after you have turned right onto Joseph Young Drive (when driving from the north). Parking is available in a small car park just before the boulders. These problems are a short walk from the Roadside boulders.
1. Lama's V5
Jump for the small slanting sidepull on the arete with your right hand. Get established on the large rail above before topping out over the upper arete. FA: Martin Lama.
2. The Artful Dodger V8
Possibly the best line in the area. Climb the gorgeous arete using holds on the adjacent walls after a burly stand-start. FA: Simon Weill.
2a. Swallows and Amazons V9
Stand-start with left hand in the open corner and right hand stretched up for a nubbin on the arete - stand on the pointy boulder to help. Punch for a better hold on the arete with the right, then technical moves allow a crimp on the front face to be got with the left. Carry on up the arete/face (still tricky) to top out more easily. Don't rock around the arete to the right at the top. A fantastic climb. FA: Peter Reynolds.
Variation: start on the ground and don't stretch off the pointy boulder. A much better climb. Probably still V9 but harder. FA: Peter Reynolds.
3. Lama's V1
Climb the arete/slab on the slabby left-hand side. Eases at the finish. FA: Martin Lama.
4. Lama's V3
Climb the arete on the steep right-hand side. A tricky stand-start eases after a few moves. FA: Martin Lama.
5. Pink Wafer V4
Stand on the large boulder to the right of Lama's V2, pull on to the wall and grab the large ledge below the top. Top out. Height dependent. A bit weird really. FA: Peter Reynolds
Easier problems exist on the smaller "bolus" boulder to the right of the main block.
Bison V2
Overhanging arete on the boulder right of the main boulder. Short. Opposite Lama's V1.
1. Lama's V5Jump for the small slanting sidepull on the arete with your right hand. Get established on the large rail above before topping out over the upper arete. FA: Martin Lama.
2. The Artful Dodger V8
Possibly the best line in the area. Climb the gorgeous arete using holds on the adjacent walls after a burly stand-start. FA: Simon Weill.
2a. Swallows and Amazons V9
Stand-start with left hand in the open corner and right hand stretched up for a nubbin on the arete - stand on the pointy boulder to help. Punch for a better hold on the arete with the right, then technical moves allow a crimp on the front face to be got with the left. Carry on up the arete/face (still tricky) to top out more easily. Don't rock around the arete to the right at the top. A fantastic climb. FA: Peter Reynolds.
Variation: start on the ground and don't stretch off the pointy boulder. A much better climb. Probably still V9 but harder. FA: Peter Reynolds.
3. Lama's V1
Climb the arete/slab on the slabby left-hand side. Eases at the finish. FA: Martin Lama.
4. Lama's V3
Climb the arete on the steep right-hand side. A tricky stand-start eases after a few moves. FA: Martin Lama.
5. Pink Wafer V4
Stand on the large boulder to the right of Lama's V2, pull on to the wall and grab the large ledge below the top. Top out. Height dependent. A bit weird really. FA: Peter Reynolds
Easier problems exist on the smaller "bolus" boulder to the right of the main block.
Bison V2
Overhanging arete on the boulder right of the main boulder. Short. Opposite Lama's V1.
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