Location
1a. Avoidance V2
Stand-start and make a one-move-wonder to the good large hold where the arete flattens out. Mantel to finish. So named because the slabby arete above is where the real problem should go. FA: Pete Reynolds.
1. Dune V5
Stand-start and reach a small positive edge using crimps. From here, better holds lead to a big move to a large blob, and then the top. FA: Pete Reynolds.
2. Ghanima V5
Stand-start. Climb directly up the scoop, and then head out left via a small crimp on the face. From here, finish direct. FA: Pete Reynolds.
3. I touched his face, I felt the gift V6
Climb the arête from a stand-start. Pinchy moves lead to a throw to a good hold. From here head left to finish up the slab. FA: Pete Reynolds.
4. Moisture for the Dead V3
Sit-start avoiding the large detached blocks to the left and right. Climb the obvious line of broken features to gain better holds and the top. Easier from a stand-start. FA: Pete Reynolds.
5. Gyroscopic Flop V0
Sit-start and climb the low rounded arête. FA: James Reynolds.
6. St James V0
Sit-start and climb the crack. FA: Pete Reynolds.
7. St Toby V3
Stand-start and climb directly up the discontinuous crack. Avoid holds on the surrounding climbs. FA: Pete Reynolds.
8. St Alia V1
Use the crack of St Toby to climb the slab to the left of that problem. FA: Pete Reynolds.
9. My Idea V4
Sit-start on crimps and then reach rightwards to the arête which is climbed to finish. This problem can be climbed from a stand-start at an easier grade. FA: Pete Reynolds.
10. My Brother’s Idea V5
Sit-start and make a big move left to a crimp around the side of the bloc. Use this to rearrange your feet to allow a direct finish up the left-hand arête. This problem can be climbed from a stand-start at an easier grade. FA: Pete Reynolds.
11. Shufflington V1
Sit-start and climb up the slab. Don’t stray too far left. FA: Pete Reynolds.
11a. Crowbar Not Required V1
Sit-start and climb the arete using the large loose flake. Don't stray too far left. FA: Pete Reynolds.
12. National Park V4
Sit-start on the undercut to reach a poor hold on the face. From here, a lunge leftwards gains the top. FA: Pete Reynolds.
12a. Sidney Crosby V6
Sit-start using the undercut with the right hand. Lean a long way leftwards to use a pinch on the diagonal crack. Use this to cross over for a crimp above with the right hand before topping out on the far left arete. Stretchy and powerful. FA: Pete Reynolds.
12b. Ash's Arete V0
Sit-start and climb the arete using the diagonal crack. FA: Ash Sankey.
12c. Babymoon V4 (not pictured)
Sit-start just right of National Park with a lefthand undercling and righthand sidepull. Use the huge blocky foothold. Climb up through the nose on big holds via big moves. FA: Pete Reynolds.
12d. Lindy, Oatey and Rushdie V8 (not pictured)
Start as for 'Babymoon' but do not use the huge blocky foothold. Climb up and rightwards without using the nose via a sharp round pocket to finish direct. This can be climbed using the huge blocky foothold at around V5/6.
13. Nature’s Nation V6
Sit-start on the lowest two side-pulls and climb the overhanging face on positive holds. Holds right of the arête (on the slab) are out of bounds. Top out to finish. FA: Pete Reynolds.
14. Toby Slab #1 V0
Climb directly up the slab from a stand-start. FA: Toby Roberts.
15. Toby Slab #2 V0
Climb the rib from a stand-start. FA: Toby Roberts.
16. Armchair Tourist V6
Sit-start on the largest holds in the low break (not quite at the far right-hand end). Traverse leftwards, slapping and heel-hooking, until better holds permit a reachy rock-over to finish. Nice line but tricky to keep your feet off the ground. FA: Pete Reynolds.
17. Sick Skink and the Ham V0
Climb the slab from a small ledge. Stand-start. FA: Pete Reynolds.
18. Disappearing Spider V2
Stand-start to the right of SSatH. Climb the slab directly via some thin moves. FA: Pete Reynolds.
19. Farmer Daniel V0
Stand-start and climb the arête which eases at the top. FA: Pete Reynolds.
Coming from Harcourt, the Roadside boulders are on the righthand side of the road just before the junction with Joseph Young Drive. Some climbs are a little mossy due to minimal cleaning.
1a. Avoidance V2
Stand-start and make a one-move-wonder to the good large hold where the arete flattens out. Mantel to finish. So named because the slabby arete above is where the real problem should go. FA: Pete Reynolds.
1. Dune V5
Stand-start and reach a small positive edge using crimps. From here, better holds lead to a big move to a large blob, and then the top. FA: Pete Reynolds.
2. Ghanima V5
Stand-start. Climb directly up the scoop, and then head out left via a small crimp on the face. From here, finish direct. FA: Pete Reynolds.
3. I touched his face, I felt the gift V6
Climb the arête from a stand-start. Pinchy moves lead to a throw to a good hold. From here head left to finish up the slab. FA: Pete Reynolds.
4. Moisture for the Dead V3
Sit-start avoiding the large detached blocks to the left and right. Climb the obvious line of broken features to gain better holds and the top. Easier from a stand-start. FA: Pete Reynolds.
5. Gyroscopic Flop V0
Sit-start and climb the low rounded arête. FA: James Reynolds.
6. St James V0
Sit-start and climb the crack. FA: Pete Reynolds.
7. St Toby V3
Stand-start and climb directly up the discontinuous crack. Avoid holds on the surrounding climbs. FA: Pete Reynolds.
8. St Alia V1
Use the crack of St Toby to climb the slab to the left of that problem. FA: Pete Reynolds.
9. My Idea V4
Sit-start on crimps and then reach rightwards to the arête which is climbed to finish. This problem can be climbed from a stand-start at an easier grade. FA: Pete Reynolds.
10. My Brother’s Idea V5
Sit-start and make a big move left to a crimp around the side of the bloc. Use this to rearrange your feet to allow a direct finish up the left-hand arête. This problem can be climbed from a stand-start at an easier grade. FA: Pete Reynolds.
11. Shufflington V1
Sit-start and climb up the slab. Don’t stray too far left. FA: Pete Reynolds.
11a. Crowbar Not Required V1
Sit-start and climb the arete using the large loose flake. Don't stray too far left. FA: Pete Reynolds.
12. National Park V4
Sit-start on the undercut to reach a poor hold on the face. From here, a lunge leftwards gains the top. FA: Pete Reynolds.
12a. Sidney Crosby V6
Sit-start using the undercut with the right hand. Lean a long way leftwards to use a pinch on the diagonal crack. Use this to cross over for a crimp above with the right hand before topping out on the far left arete. Stretchy and powerful. FA: Pete Reynolds.
12b. Ash's Arete V0
Sit-start and climb the arete using the diagonal crack. FA: Ash Sankey.
12c. Babymoon V4 (not pictured)
Sit-start just right of National Park with a lefthand undercling and righthand sidepull. Use the huge blocky foothold. Climb up through the nose on big holds via big moves. FA: Pete Reynolds.
12d. Lindy, Oatey and Rushdie V8 (not pictured)
Start as for 'Babymoon' but do not use the huge blocky foothold. Climb up and rightwards without using the nose via a sharp round pocket to finish direct. This can be climbed using the huge blocky foothold at around V5/6.
13. Nature’s Nation V6
Sit-start on the lowest two side-pulls and climb the overhanging face on positive holds. Holds right of the arête (on the slab) are out of bounds. Top out to finish. FA: Pete Reynolds.
14. Toby Slab #1 V0
Climb directly up the slab from a stand-start. FA: Toby Roberts.
15. Toby Slab #2 V0
Climb the rib from a stand-start. FA: Toby Roberts.
16. Armchair Tourist V6
Sit-start on the largest holds in the low break (not quite at the far right-hand end). Traverse leftwards, slapping and heel-hooking, until better holds permit a reachy rock-over to finish. Nice line but tricky to keep your feet off the ground. FA: Pete Reynolds.
17. Sick Skink and the Ham V0
Climb the slab from a small ledge. Stand-start. FA: Pete Reynolds.
18. Disappearing Spider V2
Stand-start to the right of SSatH. Climb the slab directly via some thin moves. FA: Pete Reynolds.
19. Farmer Daniel V0
Stand-start and climb the arête which eases at the top. FA: Pete Reynolds.
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